Bari -- the capital of the Puglia region of southeastern Italy
Bari was our first port-of-call. Before talking about our adventures there, I need to take time for a special, personal note.
My hat is off to my sister-in-law, Cathie Moss, for the outstanding work she did as travel planner, organizer, and director. Without her, we couldn't have made the trip. Thanks, Cathie. Hope we can do it again!
Now, about Bari.
History being one of my favorite subjects, I often do a bit of research on the location I'm visiting and include it in the post. In Europe, most history is measured in millennia and centuries, so what you read here is a small part of Bari and Puglia's history.
Bari, a port on the Adriatic sea, is the capital of Puglia (Apulia) region in southeastern Italy, forming the heel of Italy’s “boot.” Across the Adriatic and Ionian Seas, it faces Albania, Bosnia-Herzegovina, Croatia, Greece, and Montenegro,
Believed to be originally Illyrian, Bari may have been inhabited since 1500 BC. Bari was controlled by the Greeks and then, later, the Romans. As early as 181 BC, Bari's harbor is noted. A Saracen stronghold in the 9th century AD, the city became the seat of the Byzantine governor of Apulia in 885. It was captured for the Normans by Robert Guiscard in 1071. Peter the Hermit preached the First Crusade there in 1096, and a large party of crusaders embarked from its port. Razed by William the Bad of Sicily in 1156, Bari acquired new greatness under Emperor Frederick II (reigned 1220–50). An independent duchy under a succession of rulers from the 14th century, it passed from the Sforza family to the kingdom of Naples in 1558 and became part of the Italian kingdom in 1860.
Modern Bari consists of the old city on the peninsula dividing the old from the new harbors; the new city along the coast on either side; and the industrial area inland. The chief features of historic interest are in the old city, notably the 12th-century Romanesque cathedral; the Norman castle, rebuilt by Frederick II and later extended; and the Basilica of San Nicola, founded in 1087 to house the relics of St. Nicholas, the patron saint of Bari.
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Leaving modern Bari for another day, we disembarked and walked into the "old town" of Bari Vecchia for a self-guided tour or as we call it, a look around.
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First stop was the cathedral. Basilica di San NicolaCommissioned in 1089 to house the stolen relics of St. Nicholas of Myra.
Its crypt today still contains the remains of St. Nicholas, the patron saint of sailors, travelers and children and know to us as the original Santa Claus.
The front façade has some fantastic small details and sculptures and the interior has a simply stunning gold ceiling with painted artwork. Inside are many artworks on the main floor and, on the level below ground, is the tomb of Saint Nicolas.
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| Saint Nick (Santa Claus) in his dress up outfit. |
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| Portion of the gilded artwork that adorns the ceiling. |
The basilica has continued to be an important pilgrimage destination throughout the centuries. Devotees come from all over the world, especially from the particularly devout Orthodox Russia, to venerate St. Nicholas. The crypt features a series of capitals, no two alike; some are called "double-faced." (I photographed each of these and hope to post a collage at a later time.)
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| The Crypt |
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| Box seat? |
The street shops beckoned next.
The most interesting aspect of our walk was the back streets of Baria Vecchia (old Bari), often just narrow, winding alleyways. Many doorways had lace curtains served as the front door during the daytime. Residents were often seated just inside the curtain, able to hear activity on the street and call out to passing neighbors. Many of the wrought iron balconies on the second level and lines strung between building along the narrow alleys served dry laundry, even though we were there on a Sunday.
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| My brother would love to have one of these |
The streets and alleys were too narrow for cars so scooters were the motorized transport of choice.
We had no idea where we were but happened by chance on one of the sights we were seeking -- the door front pasta makers. Women, as their mothers and grandmothers did, make the pasta dough and shape it at tables set outside their front door then put it on table racks to dry, package, and sell it.
Now we were ready for a seat and some refreshments. Storefront cafes around a nearby square were a welcome sight. Homemade gelato was a treat.
We started back toward the ship to make the scheduled boarding time so were only able to observe the exterior of the Castello Svevo.
This imposing structure, originally built by the Norman King Ruggero II in the 12th century, was rebuilt by Frederick II in 1233. He added two of the original Norman towers, still visible today. In the 16th century, during the height of Bari’s glory, it served as a Renaissance residence for Isabella of Aragon and her daughter Bona Sforza—and became a playground for the artists, writers and powerful dignitaries that the two would host.
This memorial that we passed on the way back marked a World War II air raid that was a disaster for the port of Bari.
Here's a summary of what I learned about the event:
On the afternoon of 2nd December 1943, a German reconnaissance aircraft discovered that the port of Bari, was ‘full’ of Allied shipping. A bombing raid was organized and hit the port in the early evening, hitting a large number of ships in a surprise attack.
The effects were amplified because two ammunition ships were hit, causing shattering explosions that broke windows seven miles away. An oil pipeline in the harbor was hit, spilling large quantities of burning fuel into the harbor area. Most seriously, the Liberty ship John Harvey – carrying a secret cargo of 2,000 mustard gas bombs – was hit.
The John Harvey’s cargo was known to very few people. It was part of the Allied supply of chemical weapons that was maintained to be used in retaliation for any such German attack. Those dealing with the casualties were not aware of this additional hazard, or of how to treat those affected. Nor did they know how to treat the many Italian civilians who were affected by the mustard gas cloud that hung over the harbor area.
http://ww2today.com/2nd-december-1943-mustard-gas-disaster-in-bari-harbour. You can read a detailed account at https://www.americanheritage.com/content/disaster-bari-0
A few other sights:
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| Elementary School |
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| What do you think? Anger management clinic? Before and after coffee? Judicial nominee at a Congressional hearing? |
See you at our next port-of-call -- Katakolon, Greece.
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