Traveling on Shank's Mare

The need to pay a bill by mail and to get some exercise was the catalyst for a walk to the post office in Summerland Key, nearly four miles one way.

We can do this, we said. Elvis didn't object so off we went with some bottles of water, a camera, and the payment envelope.

Getting there was good; getting home, another story. With two miles left before we got back home, I was ready to hitchhike. The pain in shoulders, back and toes reminded me of the nun who told me to forego Novocain at the dentist's office and "offer up the pain to Jesus." Even at that young age, I though the idea nonsensical. Me, I like to avoid pain. My only choice in this event was to ignore it and think about how wonderful it  be to was going to be to get in the shower and then lay down. Billy and Elvis set the pace and we made it -- 3 1/2 hours round trip. Glad we did.

Today we hit the road again, this time heading south and for less than half of yesterday's distance. Less energy today.

All that exercise justified a restaurant dinner and it was a very good one. Just up the road, north, is the Square Grouper, so named for the square bales of marine life that used to be hauled up with regularity around here. Their lounge happy hour starts at 4:20 p.m. If Jeff Sessions, Trump's nominee for AG, gets his way, this place may be in trouble.

Below are some the sights from along the way.

Our neighbors across the way have a banana tree that is living up to its name. We've been told these will be excellent eating bananas, superior to those we buy at the market.

Note the flower on the long stalk.














Couldn't pass up this little guy. There are also large iguanas that lounge in the mangrove trees by the canal in the back of the house. No pictures yet, stay tuned.










Without the penguins, fish cleaning stations would have to find a new way to dispose of all the "trimmings" (to use a euphemism). They get into full combat mode during feeding times.





The tangled up stuff you see is fishing tackle that has been caught in the electric lines. Every year, all the lines are cleared and the tackle is donated to the Boy Scout troop in the area to be salvaged for resale. Fishing enthusiasts can lose a setup due to overenthusiastic casting (marks you as an amateur) or when a tarpon takes the bait and runs out all your line.

Here's a native Floridian we met while walking across the fishing bridge south of us. He had lots of stories and never stopped talking. Said he worked in film production for movies and television productions including "Breaking Bad" and "NCIS Miami." He shared lots of insider fishing tips, none of which I remember. Maybe Billy can recall some of them when we get the chance to wet a line.









Seafood the Easy Way

The fishing trip Billy was scheduled to take with the neighbors got cancelled so we decided to find a seafood market that did its own fishing or bought off the boats of local fishermen. We knew we had gotten great shrimp at a place north of Marathon so off we went. We took advantage of the great special they had posted on the cooler. : - )





We had shrimp broiled with garlic, olive oil, and pepper. Outstanding. The fresh seafood here is the best -- one of my favorite parts of these trips. Next trip we'll get the lobster claws. And, we hope to catch some fish ourselves. Maybe tomorrow we'll go out on the head boat up in Marathon.

Our neighbors are a very social group and gather at the home of one of them about every night. From what we've been told, the house we are renting is the usual gathering place so I guess we've put a spanner in the works. Bill has made one visit and declined another the following night. Me, I'm keeping my head down. Socializing with people I don't know is at the bottom of my list -- too nerve racking.




Back to the Keys -- 2017

Definitely a snowbird visit this time - we'll be here for two months. Our digs are on Cudjoe Key, about thirty miles south of Marathon, our location last year. The place is much more comfortable with the trade off being all the neighbors hang out at each others houses, including this one.  We've met a number of them and they all describe the place we are staying as the center of recreational activity. Top activities, maybe the only ones, are fishing and drinking, separately and simultaneously, as circumstances permit.

We took a walk this afternoon to see the area and the pictures show a couple of landscape items, the froot of our house, and some views of the canal side. The owner's boat is too big to capture with my point and shoot lens but will try to get it with the Nikon.







The Story of Pigeon Key


We followed up attendance at the Pigeon Key Arts Festival with a boat ride to Pigeon Key. Pedestrian and bicycle access to the key are unavailable because the ramp off the Seven Mile Bridge is so deteriorated it is unsafe. Restoration work, funded in part by the Arts Festival and other fund raisers and, hopefully supplemented by a pending state grant, is to be completed by 2017. 

The boat was way better than walking or riding the bridge and ramp. Our tour guide gave us a fairly detailed understanding of the history of railroad construction project and the role Pigeon Key played as a housing location for railroad work crews. Railroad construction project managers liked the idea of housing their work crews on an island -- ingress and egress and access to recreation, including alcohol, could be easily limited.


Also a part of the tour was an oral biography of Flagler who was the mind and money behind the railroad. It finished in an all-out effort to complete the project before he died. Flagler was a visionary and his work converting this particular vision into reality was a significant accomplishment with far-reaching implications for south Florida, especially the Keys.

For me, the more important history was that of the workers who actually built the railroad was more interesting -- without them, Flagler's railroad would have remained a vision. Too often, the muscle, sweat, and tears of thousands of workers build these extraordinary structures we see around us and upon which we depend -- from the railroad through the Keys to the skyscrapers of New York to the Golden Gate Bridge -- simply soak into the earth, disappear and are forgotten. 

I've excerpted sections from the Flagler Centennial website (http://www.flaglerkeys100.com/marathon) to provide further detail on the railroad, Marathon and Pigeon Key.

Once construction was completed as far as what was to be known as Marathon, Marathon became the general headquarters for the remaining construction to Key West. The starting point was the Seven Mile Bridge. Serious construction started in early 1909. It required three years to complete.
Centered on Vaca Key, Marathon got its name from workers constructing the monumental Oversea Railway from mainland Florida throughout the Keys in the early 1900s. Working night and day to meet the grueling construction schedule, crews reputedly said, “This is getting to be a real Marathon.”  (A FWIW anecdote, to be sure.)

The overall bridge was sometimes referred to as the Flagler Viaduct. At that time it was not known as the Seven Mile Bridge, a name coined later.

What is today called the Seven Mile Bridge was actually composed of the Knight’s Key, Pigeon Key, Moser Channel, Pacet Channel bridges. It crosses the waters south of Vaca Key and is one of the longest segmental bridges in the world. 

The Old Seven Mile Bridge running parallel to the modern span was the jewel of the Oversea Railway and a turn-of-the-century technological marvel that took four years to construct.


~~~~ Pigeon Key, following photos ~~~~











Boat landing at Pigeon Key
Pinfish at Pigeon Key Dock






On board the boat to Pigeon Key. Billy, Betty, me and Bob, Jr.


These houses were reserved for managers and engineers and their families
. The workers slept in tents.



And, at the end of the historic bridge, a 2.1-mile span, is a tiny island with lots of history,

Beneath what is now called the Old Seven Mile Bridge, lies the historical treasure known as Pigeon Key. In the early 1900s, the five-acre island served as a base camp for workers during construction of the original Seven Mile Bridge. 

Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, today it houses century-old buildings and a museum chronicling the construction of the Key West Extension, commonly called the Oversea Railway because its track stretched more than 100 miles out into open water.



More than 400 workers lived in the railroad village on Pigeon Key, which had a post office, commissary and one-room school, during the Seven Mile Bridge’s construction from 1908 to 1912. Following its completion, maintenance crews continued living on the island.

Children on Pigeon Key waving at the train.
A hurricane destroyed the railway in 1935, and a state highway was built to replace it. Pigeon Key then became headquarters to the Florida Road and Toll Bridge District. Starting in 1968, for two decades the island served as an environmental field station for international researchers studying tropical and subtropical marine and island ecologies with the University of Miami.

In 1993, the not-for-profit Pigeon Key Foundation assumed stewardship of the island and began restoration efforts. The railroad museum, located in one of the original 1909 buildings, features exhibits including maps, historic photos, models and a picture postcard collection of the unique line over water.

A Walk in Key West

With my visit to the Key 40 years ago a dim memory, I looked forward to another visit -- time to get re-acquainted. A cool and windy day, but no cruise ships docked so few crowds expected.

The City is so dense with sights and shops and neighborhoods to stroll, the day was over before we even put a dent in our list of places we HAD to visit. That's OK, it means we'll have to go back another day.



First stop was Sloppy Joe's. It was the middle of "Put-in-Bay Days" at the bar which was a happy coincidence for Brother Bob as he lived on Middle Bass Island in Ohio for a time and is well acquainted with Put-in Bay. Bob Gatewood provided live entertainment and we stayed for his set. Nice way to start the day.

Bob and Betty


Bob Gatewood -- A flash from Put-in-Bay all the way south in the Florida Keys.



Great lobster rolls. Very small place with a very big reputation for the best lobster roll in Key West. It was the only one I had so I can't vouch for that but can say it was excellent. Eat at small counter inside or small picnic table outside - family style. That means you sit with people you've never seen before and are unlikely to see again.


I'm betting the stickers are pretty much what is holding this truck together.


Lots of roosters walking around Key West. Some real beauties. This one was scavanging at the lobster roll place.
Another Key West icon, the mermaid. It may actually be a Keys icon as they are ubiquitous.


Now you know why the square is named Mallory.

Mallory Square on a cool and windy day. We didn't stay for the sunset celebration because of the weather. Well, being ready to get off our feet could have been part of the reason. : - )

Evening Entertainment on the Riviera Maya

I had a solo evening out to attend the Cirque du Soleil show that the troupe performs in their dedicated auditoreum here on the Vidanta grou...